Attic Insulation
Attic spray foam insulation stuffs every gap around pot lights, wiring and the hatch, then builds enough depth to keep the second floor cozy through a long Wilmot winter.
View Attic InsulationMatted batts, droppings-laced loose fill and failed foam get stripped out first, so new insulation lands on clean, dry wood it can hold on to.
Whatever we pull out gets bagged and hauled off, and the price for it sits on the same paper quote.
Foam that was blended wrong, sprayed onto cold wood or piled on too thick in one go can fail. It shrinks off the studs, cracks, crumbles or gives off a chemical smell for months.
Spray foam insulation removal is the only real cure. We cut and scrape the bad foam down to bare lumber, then spray new foam that bonds as it should. Adding a fresh layer over bad foam just buries the problem.
Old batts and loose fill in attics and crawl spaces end up wet, packed down and full of droppings. New foam will not stick to a dirty surface, so that material comes out first.
For this side of spray foam insulation removal, a high-power vacuum pulls the loose fill and batts get bagged by hand. Then we clean the surface and check the wood for damage before attic spray foam insulation or crawl space foam goes on.
Pulling insulation is dusty. We seal off the work zone, lay a runner through the house, and send the vacuum hose straight out to bags or a truck outside. A second clean happens when the job wraps up.
An odour that lingers past the first few weeks is the clearest sign of bad foam. Gaps at the edges, cracks, soft or crumbly patches and foam hanging loose from the wood are others.
If you spot any of them, call. We come by, take a look and tell you straight whether it has to go.
Some older attics hold vermiculite, a grey-brown, pebbly loose fill. Vermiculite can contain asbestos, so it has to be tested by a lab before it is moved.
If we see it during a visit, we stop and tell you, and the testing happens first. When the result is clear, spray foam insulation removal and the new foam can go ahead on the normal schedule.
Spray foam insulation removal is priced on the area, the material and how awkward it is to reach. It shows up on the same quote as the new insulation, so the whole job carries one price.
Phone (548) 290-9844 or send the request form for a free look at the problem foam. Spray foam insulation removal is booked after that visit, and we try to answer every message within the same working day. Every service we offer is listed on the home page.
Plenty of jobs here span two or three areas, and doing them in one trip saves a second setup.
Attic spray foam insulation stuffs every gap around pot lights, wiring and the hatch, then builds enough depth to keep the second floor cozy through a long Wilmot winter.
View Attic Insulation
Basement spray foam insulation bonds to poured concrete, block or old fieldstone and holds its R-value even when a spring thaw leaves the floor wet.
View Basement Insulation
Crawl space spray foam insulation pulls a cold, musty crawl space under an addition or an old farmhouse inside the heated envelope, so the room above stops feeling like a porch.
View Crawl Space Insulation
Barn and shop spray foam insulation stops cold steel from raining on what is stored below and holds heat in a work bay, machine shed or livestock barn.
View Barn And Shop Insulation
Garage spray foam insulation turns a cold garage into a workshop you can use in February and takes the chill off any bedroom or bonus room sitting above it.
View Garage Insulation
Closed cell foam in the walls, rim and roof of a new Baden or New Hamburg house helps it pass the air test and clear the current energy code.
View New Home Insulation
Rim joist spray foam insulation closes the ring of lumber resting on the foundation, the single draftiest strip in most basements.
View Rim Joist InsulationSend rough measurements and what insulation is there today, and we will phone to set a time.
Send this short request, and we will phone to settle on a day and hour for the visit. Calls go to +1 (548) 290-9844.